I get why it is how it is but I don't like it for crap. the 425 design kept the shaft up in the frame mostly. that shaft just isn't straight with no support near the bend, that can't be fun for that u-joint,you've got this twirling part just hanging down there begging to pick up any old damn thing. I plan to take it out of the garage first. I thought about flipping the bolts around for better access, but. mostly irrelevant to say 50n-m is really saying "make sure it's tight, dammit, cuz this is a moving vibrating part and the consequences of not tightening it are B A D". I might guess it goes in #4 but why? And it looks too big for that anyway.Īlternatively if you have the instructions, or even just pictures to hint what the right routing is, I'd be most appreciative.Ĭlick to expand.how sensitive do you think those bolts are to torque spec? seems like at 50n-m (and yea I'm guessing) the bearings don't really gonna float very well one way or the other and since it's not really a direct clamp onto the bearing, the dif between 50nm and 100nm seems. Nor is it clear what THAT cable is for.Īnd then there's part #36 which is just coming right outta left field. I'm not seeing how it goes up within that guard bracket. I see it's on the parts diagram, but there's just this arrow saying "well ya know it goes somewhere". But why TWO cables? And what's the correct routing? Sure I can just string it all together and route it some haphazard way, but I've got all these bits, why not do it right? Both are clearly meant to get from A to B. I mounted the sensor, and deduced there's a little widget thingie that you use to hold the other end of the short cable in place within the QH assembly. I read somewhere in here to set the spacing for the hall sensor about 1/32. I've deduced that the hall sensor for the RIO switch connects to the 3-pronger that's hanging loose by the starter. I've gotten the thing mostly together, and it all kinda makes sense.
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